Ever since eating this recipe in our home last winter we had been looking forward to trying it at its home this summer in the mountains of France. We found it on the menu of a pavement cafe just opposite the door of the church at Briançon, a fortified town high in the alps. Briançon is actually the highest city in the European union, according to French statistics – about the same height as Ben Nevis in Scotland. The Tartiflette did not disappoint and it was certainly authentic, containing the Reblochon cheese which is a regional speciality, with a slice actually melted on top. It was a thoroughly enjoyable lunch in a lovely location. When making my own version some months beforehand I had been unable to find Reblochon (or Taleggio which was suggested as an alternative) so I used grated Mozzarella. I would look around a little harder though if I was making it for a special occasion (I have seen it since so now know where to go). Although I used a recipe from a book, I did some research to find out about alternative cheeses. Waitrose have two recipes. The first is for a Tartiflette very similar to the one I made, where they suggest substituting Crémier de Chaumes, Epoisses or even mature Irish Ardrahan (unknown to me). The second recipe is a variation on the basic recipe which uses ripe Brie: Tartiflette with Brie & Bacon. I have read elsewhere that you can use Pont-l’Évêque. Sounds as if anything goes, though preferably not too mild a flavour: most importantly, the cheese must melt well…!
My recipe comes from One Step Ahead by Mary Berry, a book from the library with so many lovely recipes that I am loth to return it. She writes that the mixture can be prepared in advance – up to 12 hours if necessary – and kept in the fridge (though bring it to room temperature before cooking to avoid cracking the dish) but is not suitable for freezing. In the dish we ate on holiday a slice of Reblochon was laid on top of each individual portion dish, so reserve slices of cheese before you grate if you are going to do this. Although we ate Tartiflette in the Alps during the summer months, it is perfect as a quick and simple winter TV supper eaten round the fire. Be warned, though: it is not a dish for calorie counters! Serve with green salad or green vegetable.
Tartiflette
(Serves 4)
Butter for the dish
1lb/500g small potatoes, preferably new
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
4-5ozs/125-150g smoked streaky bacon, chopped
4-5ozs/125-150g button mushrooms, halved or quartered
4ozs/125g Reblochon or Taleggio cheese, rind removed
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substitute a similar melting cheese (see above) but the result will not be as authentic
¼pint/150ml single pouring cream (original used double) – I used Elmlea half fat
a little paprika
2tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1. Butter a shallow ovenproof dish. Preheat the oven to 200oC/400oF/Gas 6
2. Boil the potatoes in salted ater until they are tender. Drain well and, once they have cooled enough to handle, slice them thickly.
3. Arrange them in the base of the buttered dish.
4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion for a few minutes over a high heat. Add the bacon and fry for a few minutes more. Turn down the heat, cover the pan and cook for around 20 minutes until it is tender, stirring occasionally.
5. Add the mushrooms to the mixture in the pan, raise the temperature and cook over a high heat for 3 minutes.
6. Tip the mixture over the potatoes and stir in.
7. Coarsely grate the cheese – or remaining cheese – over the top of the bacon and potato mixture.
8. Pour the seasoned cream over the top of the potato mixture, sprinkle with paprika. Bake in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes until crisp on top and piping hot.
9. Serve hot sprinkled with parsley and with a green salad on the side.
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